In this post, we explore the critical things to look out and consider when purchasing a horizontal-type metal cutting bandsaw machine.
Select the titles below to see more about each topic.
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First things first – the machine has to be big enough to handle the sizes you need to cut. If you’ll be cutting angles, remember the size capacity diminishes fairly rapidly.
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Cutting capacity is dependent on several factors, including the radius of the arc transcribed by the dropping arm, unobstructed clearance above the blade and the positioning of guide blocks. If you need to cut a particular size on a particular angle, ensure there is sufficient clearance by specifying a higher capacity, or test the machine at the desired settings before purchasing.
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The bigger the wheels the bigger the size capacity….
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Blade size counts. The wider the blade, the higher the beam strength of the blade, which means you can feed faster, thereby reducing cutting times.
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Next, consider the quality of the machine required. No point spending megabucks on a Rolls Royce when you are only using it a few times a week, a Mini Moke will do! But most WOLFMACH customers are serious engineers & do a serious amount of cutting. We have many customers who bought what seemed like the best deal, then a few months later they wished they had spent a bit more on a better quality machine.
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Check the general quality of the machine & the country of origin, some regions have better quality control than others and some locally sourced materials may be of a different composition, remember not all steels are the same! The comparable weight of machines is a good guide to quality level. The heavier the machine the more stable it should be.
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Is the saw arm cast or fabricated? Castings are more rigid. Larger high-quality machines will have a hollow fabricated saw arm, but how thick is the fabrication, & are there gussets & strengthening braces in place? Cheaper saws are built to a budget. Thinner steel & lack of strengthening members is an easy way to save the manufacturer money, & usually in the places you cannot easily see. High blade tension will soon ‘move’ light gauge saw arms & your cutting becomes inaccurate.
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Check motor size, coolant pump size, hydraulic system, blade-guide rigidity – are they more than adequate, & do the parts come from reputable sources?
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Do the side guides have ball bearings to take the twist out of the blade BEFORE the blade enters the carbide guide pads? If not, you can expect to spend quite a lot more on blades.
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Most machines are powered through a heavy-duty reduction gear box – is that gearbox heavy enough to take the strain of a highly tensioned blade as it cuts through a large piece of solid steel or flat bar? The diameter of the shaft through the centre of the gearbox will be a guide – go for the bigger shaft.
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Some bigger saws operate on twin posts – these are the best for rigidity. But most saws hinge on a pivot shaft located under the driver wheel. All machine vibration & angle-cutting forces are transferred through that shaft. It needs to be a good size solid shaft & preferably use adjustable taper roller race bearings for mounting the saw arm. Many cheaper machines have a simple steel pin & the saw arm mounted on bronze bushes. You can expect these to flog out prematurely.
- Is the blade easy to replace? You should not have to learn the Highland Fling to be able to change the blade.
- Are controls well laid out & in easy reach? Are the operating instructions in a language you can understand?
- Is the machine easy to keep clean?
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There are a number of different features available on different types of bandsaw machinery. If you are cutting a multitude of same-length billet for example, best to go for a fully auto machine. A CNC auto machine will give the ability to cut varying quantities of varying lengths. Fully auto machines give you the option of ‘lights-out’ production. Hitch-vice (or shuttle) works better & is more accurate than powered roller feed.
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If you need a machine for heavy structural steelwork, a feed bypass valve will slow your feed rate if there is excess pressure on the blade. It’s a blade saver.
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Flood cooling or misting fluid? Flood cooling is better for blade longevity, but it’s messy. Mist lubrication will keep the cutting bay cleaner.
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Variable blade speed control – another blade saver, especially when cutting high alloyed metals & stainless.
- Don’t get a fully auto machine for structural work – unless it’s a complete beamline.
- Do get a quick set-up turntable for angle cutting.
- Go for 10% bigger capacity than you expect is needed.
- Check out the compliance and certifications – machines made to comply with the most stringent Quality Assurance & OSH regs will be more expensive but a safer bet in the long run.
Summary
The main considerations should be obvious – can it cut what I want it to cut, will it last long enough to get a decent return on my investment, etc. but there are other things that may not be front-of-mind when eyeing up that shiny new machine, such as those nice little features that help you get the best blade life or the manufacturer’s reputation for low maintenance costs.
The best way to ensure you get a machine that won’t be a disappointment is to fully and honestly identify what matters most to you, then be sure to tick those boxes before anything else. Broadly speaking, there’s no such thing as a really bad new engineering bandsaw so long as you’re buying from reputable, knowledgeable dealers, but you can easily buy the wrong one for your needs. Using a vendor who understands your business as well as the machines will help and they can advise you how to get the most suitable saw for your workshop.
Finally, remember that lower up-front costs are often important, but are only one part of the equation when investing in machinery. If you really do need to buy the cheapest, it’s a valid business choice but if you’re in a position to make a better decision and get a longer-lasting, higher total ROI machine, you’ll already be prepared for growth when the time comes.
